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Sunday, December 19, 2010

AK-47s & Pagnes

On Wednesday morning, as I crossed the road to Cyber Café, I was surprised to see approximately 200 Congolese military soldiers marching along. They were chanting in French, or maybe it was Lingala? I wasn’t actually paying attention, having been distracted by all the AK-47s that were swung across their backs.

Fully clad in army green uniforms, these men represent a country that has seen the greatest number of deaths since WWII. More than five million Congolese have died since independence from Belgium in 1960. At the time, Belgian authorities left precious little for the Congolese to call their own. In accordance to well-known European colonial behavior, after years of raping the country’s resources, they split. In other words, they left the country ill-equipped—financially, academically, and medically—and provinces and tribes poorly-divided; essentially, on the brink of destruction.

The Era of Congolese Democracy & the Cold War (1960-1990)

Divisions within the Congolese government resulted in the following: nation-wide revolts sparking secessions; the execution of Prime Minister Patrice Lumumba; the intervention of the United Nations; and the rise of Joseph Désiré Mobutu.

Mobutu was a product of the Cold War; favored by Western, capitalist powers and responsible for ruthlessly eliminating leftist revolts in the Congo. He was also admired for giving a sense of nationalism and pride to the Congolese people; changing the traditional European city names of Leopoldville and Stanleyville to Kinshasa and Kisangani, respectively. In an effort to purge any trace of European influence, he also changed the name of the country to Zaire.

However, if the West had been paying attention, they may have noticed the flight of foreigners, acquisition of private property and rising nepotism within the government. But the actions of the Mobutu regime continued to either be ignored or go unnoticed. And central Africa would suffer for it.

Post-Cold War Era

After the Cold War, Zaire was abandoned. One reason for this desertion is attributed to the fact that nobody had the slightest idea how to save the country; a country that at every passing day fell deeper into corruption, division, poverty, and violence.

In 1994, at the time of the Rwandan genocide, Tutsi refugees crossed the border into Zaire. Hutu extremists pursued them, killing native Congolese as they did so. Soon, with the support of Rwanda and Uganda, Laurent Kabila, a commander in the South Kivu province of Congo, marched on the capital city—Kinshasa. By this time, most of Mobutu’s allies had either changed sides or fled the county; there was hardly any resistance in the transition to Kabila.

Regrettably, most of what defined Mobutu’s Zaire, defined Kabila’s République Démocratique du Congo; creating a government comprised of individuals to whom he owed favors; as the rich became richer, the poor become desperate.

Greed & the Death of Millions in the New Millennium

Over the next several years, the Congo declined into a perpetual state of bloodshed. Rwanda and Uganda soon turned against Kabila and violence committed by all sides ensued. Throughout the country, village after village was destroyed, people were either massacred or forced to survive in the jungles without protection or access to food and healthcare; disease were quick to spread and even quicker to kill.

When the United Nations arrived in 1999, the Lusaka Peace Accords created a cease-fire, but it did little to end the violence. Selfishly motivated by economic interests and territorial expansion, though disguised as unified peace-interventionists, the involvement of Rwanda, Uganda, Angola, Zimbabwe, Namibia, Chad, Gabon and France culminated in the assassination of Laurent Kabila in 2001.

Days after the assassination, the Pretoria Agreement was signed; officially giving power to Laurent Kabila’s son—Joseph. Jean-Pierre Bemba, former Congolese warlord, was named Prime Minister. Although the change in leadership ushered in a new era of democracy for the Congo and violence would generally subside, attention would now be turned to the Ituri province, a place where Congo’s bloodiest warfare had yet to be seen.

Ituri and Kivu Provinces

The dispute started between two tribes—Hema and Lendu—over property rights. It escalated into a full-scale war that soon destroyed entire villages. Uganda’s involvement plunged the region into further discord by arming both sides of the conflict, meanwhile extracting resources from the area. Soon it required the presence of the UN to physically separate the warring factions and protect innocent civilians.

Kivu province has also seen its fair share of violence, located south of Ituri. The conflict was between the military forces of the Democratic Republic of the Congo and the Democratic Forces for the Liberation of Rwanda (Hutu extremists), also involved were Tutsi rebel forces led by warlord, Laurent Nkunda. (A lot of factions and fighting, I know.) Nkunda has since been apprehended and stands trial at the International Criminal Court. Here is a clip of an interview with him by Nic Kristof.

http://being.publicradio.org/programs/2010/journalism-and-compassion/soundseen.shtml#video

The Ituri and Kivu provinces have also been a haven for other exiled and disillusioned rebels, in particular, Rwanda’s Interahamwe (Hutu militia forces) and Uganda’s Lord’s Resistance Army. Today, given its history, the Democratic Republic of the Congo continues to host the world’s largest UN force.

My Home

Aru, located in the northeastern part of Ituri, is known for its relatively peaceful existence. The United Nations, World Food Programme and United States Agency for International Development (USAID) are located near the town center and as I’ve mentioned in previous blogs, the construction of buildings, rising school attendance and increasing access to healthcare are all positive signs.

Each day there remains the promise for a better future in the Congo.

As they continued to march, Sr. Alba and I commented on the number of soldiers there were and even a vehicle; no doubt transporting the higher-ups of the battalion. Although I didn’t have my camera with me, there were more troops marching the following Saturday. I snapped a few quick photos.





As you can see, the majority of the picture has captured the lovely tree alongside the soldiers, but I was too nervous about making a scene; so there you have it.

MY FIRST PAGNE (-not sure on the spelling, it's Lingala, so I had to guess)

After my covert photo-shoot, Karen and I walked to the market to buy the weeks supply of fruit and vegetables. Most of what we purchase is green—spinach, eggplant, manioc for pondu and rather than delve into this highly entertaining topic, I will skip to the part where I purchase my first pagne.

Women and young girls are dressed in the most colorful patterns and beautiful styles. Although I had a difficult time deciding which fabric to purchase at the little shop in the market, it wasn’t near as difficult as choosing my pattern. The technical school—Coupe de Cuture—run by the Canossians sew custom-made attire for 4,000 USH ($2).


And yes, I’m taking orders. So please let me know if you wish to have a Congolese pagne!

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